From Samurai to the Catwalk
Elena’s trip to Japan was inspiring, and it got me thinking too. So I took the chance to dive deeper into Japanese culture. Between kimonos, samue (the traditional outfit worn by Zen monks during manual labor), and geta (traditional wooden sandals), I decided to tell you a bit more about the hakama.
It’s not quite pants, but it’s not exactly a skirt either. The hakama belongs to that rare category of garments that defy definition: pants with such deep pleats that they almost look like a skirt, speaking a contemporary language of minimalism, workwear (remember last month’s article on the work jacket?), and gender fluidity.
But let’s start with the history. We’re in the Heian period, which in Japan began in 794 when Emperor Kammu moved the capital to what is now Kyoto. No textile artifacts from this time have survived, but books give us a clear idea of clothing customs back then. Court attire was initially influenced by the Chinese Tang dynasty, and fabrics were imported from China. However, when Japan cut off relations with the “Land of the Dragon” in 894, an exclusive Japanese style began to emerge among the elite, and the kosode—the precursor to the kimono—became the main garment worn at court by both men and women.
Throughout the Heian period, up until around 1185, court etiquette prescribed a layered outfit: an undergarment (juban or nagajuban), like a light kimono worn to protect the main kimono; the main kimono itself, which was visible; and the hakama, worn over the kimono and tied with long fabric straps. Both everyday and ceremonial dress typically included a white hakama, made of a different fabric than the upper part of the outfit. Over time, the hakama stopped being everyday wear for women and became an integral part of samurai attire.
As often happens in fashion with the trickle-down effect—the spread of styles from the top of society to the lower levels—during the Meiji era the hakama was once again widely worn, especially among the middle classes, and was used for work or school. There are two main types: divided-leg hakama, often used for riding, and undivided hakama, more like a skirt. They have four straps—two long in the front, two shorter in the back—and a rigid back piece called a koshi-ita, which is tucked into the obi (belt).
With Japan’s Westernization in the 19th century, the hakama nearly disappeared from daily life but remained in ritual and spiritual contexts. Today, it’s still worn by martial arts practitioners such as kendo, aikido, and kyudo, and by Shinto priests during ceremonies. Even at Japanese university graduations, it’s traditional for female students to choose hakama as formal attire, blending modernity with heritage.
History often becomes inspiration, and in the 1980s, designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Comme des Garçons brought the hakama into the spotlight, helping launch what became known as the Japanese avant-garde in fashion. Its genderless nature made it especially appealing, fitting perfectly with these designers’ desire to challenge traditional categories of gender and form.
This garment reminds us that fashion is never just about aesthetics. It’s about language, symbolism, and history. The hakama tells a unique story: of a Japan that preserves its traditions while reinventing them, turning them into inspiration for the world.
